Charging your battery

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Charging your battery

Postby RC Enthusiast » Tue Aug 30, 2016 8:15 am

LiPo batteries must be charged using a LiPo compatible charger, the two main reasons are:

- LiPo charges using a system called CC/CV charging, which stands for Constant Current/Constant Voltage charging. Basically the charger will keep the current constant until the battery reaches its peak voltage. Then it will maintain that voltage while reducing the current.

- The second reason is balancing. Balancing is the term that is used to describe the act of equalizing the voltage of each cell in a battery pack. This helps with the performance of the battery and is crucial for safety reasons.



These are some safety guidelines for charging your LiPo battery pack:

- The best is to charge your battery is a fire-resistant container. If you don’t have this, at least avoid a wooden surface, paper, carpet or any other inflammable materials.

- Never leave your charging battery unattended.

- Always remove the battery from the device when charging.

- Never charge a swollen and/or squishy battery, this means the battery has come to the end of its life.

- LiPo batteries should be charged within a temperature range of 0 °C to 50 °C. Batteries charged outside this range may experience leakage, heat generation or cell damage.

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derebaker
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Charging your battery

Postby derebaker » Fri Nov 04, 2016 2:46 am

My little fenix eo5 just uses a single AA eneloop, which I have a handful of. If I notice Ive used my light more than a few minutes each day Ill throw in a new battery, put the slightly discharged one in a pile to be charged when I accumulate enough for a charging session.

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Charging your battery

Postby derebaker » Fri Nov 04, 2016 8:12 am

Here is Bobs answer......................


Clancy

I am not very familiar with your charger, but I do use one of Turnigys that is also a 6 cell lipo charger and does other packs also. I think the two chargers are closely related. First thing Ill admit is I never charge non-lipo packs with my lipo chargers. Nothing wrong with doing it, its just that the only NIMH or NiCad packs I have are 3 glow rc planes… they are getting converted to lipo batteries as I do not trust NiMH cells after the disaster of the bad Sanyo cells that has cost so many models, and I use nicads in glow chargers. I use a couple of older multiplex chargers for those and do not do lipos with them because they do not balance charge which is the only way I feel a lipo can be safely charged. Back in the day when Frank was flying electric in his electric smoothie he used these multiplex chargers which were at the time touted for lipos and it promptly killed all his packs. Then proceeded to kill mine ..well, at least partially til I changed over to Cellpro chargers for my 4S and under charging.



What you are seeing though is the practical limit on NiMH and NiCad charge rates. I usually figure about 1/10th of charge capacity as the max. So a 1500 pack I would charge no faster than 150 mah rate. Yea, I have done more than that, up to about 20. The problem is though that they do not take a full charge. They say they do but when you check out the packs you get a different story. Slower definitely gives a much stronger charge. But the question is what is good enough? My solution with my rc glow planes is that I over equip the batteries. I fly only 6 volt systems and my smallest system is 2200 mah battery for a .46 size 3D plane. Should note that I fly mostly hard 3D or hard IMAC type flying and use larger servos than most would in glow planes. So I have enough juice onboard to still have adequate charge and I test the voltage after every flight with a load tester. The bad SANYO packs tend to not take a full charge at all and when you use them they are severely discharged after one flight rather than flying an entire day. Having seen so many planes lost over the last 2 years to "good, new cells" … well, I decided to eliminate them entirely. I use only lipos in everything, including my electric starter on my glow planes. Of course all my electric stuff rc and cl is done on lipos of one flavor or another. When you try to charge a NiMH or NiCad too fast it gets hot too. I melted one in a transmitter doing that. Oh, I use only lipos in my transmitters too. Nicads you get with glow chargers typically charge at 150 mah rate. Trying to crank up the rate doesnt gain a lot unless you are just doing a hot charge to continue flying. Then I would charge at about 15 capacity rate max. I think your charger sounds like its trying to do that. As far as cycling goes, I am not knowledgeable on the ins and outs of discharging operation of chargers. If I want to discharge a pack, I just stick it in an airplane and fly it for the lipos. NIMH and Nicads you can just turn on with anything and they will discharge. a brushed motor does pretty good for this too. Really the only thing I use non lipos for now is setting up the servo arm neutral when I set up a new plane.





My recommendation honestly is to convert to lipo. You will probably need a voltage regulator but those are cheap and light and small unless you are looking at cranking out some serious amps… then they are still cheap, just not so small. Lipos will be lighter for you and a heck of a lot more reliable and you already have the balancing charger.



Good luck, bob branch

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Charging your battery

Postby derebaker » Sat Nov 05, 2016 6:55 pm

I always bring my battery inside and charge it. The bike stays in the gaurage the battery comes into the bedroom. It is best to store your battery where the is a constant non extreme tempature. Look at it this way if there is a surge and the battery is off the bike your only going to damage the battery and not the the whole electrical system of the bike.

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Charging your battery

Postby Brycepnbcu » Fri Sep 22, 2017 11:51 pm

So I have heard that the battery charging is controlled by the firmware. Is there a way to have the battery charge ONLY to 10 and then stop charging it? The reason is because the batteries life will last longer. These devices are going to be plugged in at all times. So the batteries get fat on occasion, then they press up against components and obviously Im worried about fire safety. When they are fat it always messes with the wifi and the touch screen, but if I relieve the pressure by cutting the metal back off it works fine.

So I guess I have three questions:
Will this battery blow up eventually? Can I leave one with a fat battery running?
Is it a good idea to use a replacement battery that might be more rugged? I already CAN install one I just dont know how long it will run or if it is a good idea
MOST IMPORTANTLY: Is there a firmware edit or something possible that would keep the batteries at 10 charge level while plugged in?

Thank you guys,
SM


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